Sunday, July 30, 2006

 

Newfoundland and Labrador

Today is Saturday, July 29. We have our first Internet access – in the parking lot of the Clarenville, Newfoundland city library – since arriving at our campground in Doyles, Newfoundland at midnight on July 14, after a 5-1/2 hour ferry ride from Nova Scotia.

On Friday the 15th, we took a bus tour of the southwest coast of Newfoundland. This part of Newfoundland features the south end of the Long Range Mountains. The coast is rocky and is characterized by high winds, stunted fir trees, and rocks. One of the local berries in known as bake-apple, an apparent corruption of the French “baie qu’appelle” or “what is this berry named?” Tourists are known as CFA [come-from-away] people.

Sunday was a free day on which Carol and I did laundry at a laundromat located in the back of a pub and drove to the end of Cape St. George to the rocky, windy shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. That evening we attended a screech-in at the campground and became honorary Newfis after eating traditional Newfi food (bologna), talking Newfi talk (long may your big jib draw, etc.), dancing a Newfi dance, chugging a shot of Screech (Newfi rum), and kissing a codfish.

Monday we drove the motorhome up the west coast of Newfoundland from Doyles to Rocky Harbour, stopping en route to shop at Wal-Mart and buy diesel fuel. Tuesday we continued our drive to St. Anthony, on the northern coast of the island. The coast was a mixture of mountains and rocks, low land and rocks, and high land with glacial ponds. En route we saw two moose. Another feature of the western Newfoundland coast are gardens and wood stacks in the road right-of-way. Since the land is rocky, it’s hard to find garden sites. When the highway was completed in the 1980s (?) local families began to plant gardens in the road right of way and the practice continues to today – no one bothers any one else’s garden. Most of the land is owned by the province (Crown land) and for $23 a Newfi can get a permit to cut 8 cords of firewood each season. This too is stacked by the side of the road until winter, when it is hauled by snowmobile to the family’s home.

Tuesday evening we attended a Viking feast in St. Anthony, after which several of our group were accused by other member of heinous crimes (e.g. traveling under false names) and stood trial before a Viking court.

Wednesday was a bus tour of Norstead (a recreated Viking village) and a Viking heritage site where there are remains of an original Viking settlement. This part of Newfoundland was “discovered” by Lief Erikson in about 1000 AD and was called Vinland. Labrador, to the north, was known as Markland.

Thursday and Friday about half of the group (including us) took an optional tour to Labrador. We bussed back down the coast for a 1-1/2 hour ferry ride to Quebec. From the ferry dock, it was less than 5 miles to the Quebec/Labrador provincial border. After checking into our hotel and having lunch, we were bussed eastward to the end of the paved road at Red Bay, where we learned about the Basque whalers who visited this area in the 1500s. On Friday, we visited a boat works, a small museum, a waterfall, and a fish processing plant. We also climbed 128 steps to the top of the Port L’Amour Lighthouse, the tallest lighthouse in Newfoundland and Labrador. Our local bus driver/tour guide also stopped at a small B&B where the proprietress showed us (and one of our tour members played) a piano that had been rescued from a 1920 shipwreck of a British naval vessel, the HMS Raleigh. The piano had been a gift to the proprietress’ grandmother, who boarded the captain and several other seamen in her house following the wreck. The day ended with a ferry and bus trip back to the campground in St. Anthony.

On Saturday, we drove RVs back down the coast from St. Anthony to Port au Choix. Carol and I walked a local trail and happened upon an Eskimo archaeological site where a university professor and 7 graduate students were re-excavating a home that had first been studied in the 1960s.

Sunday was a short drive down the coast to Rocky Harbour. In the afternoon, Carol and I explored the local area, including another lighthouse. That evening the group had dinner at the Senior Citizen Center where after dinner entertainment consisted of a local guitar player/singer and a half dozen skits by the local seniors – it actually was quite good, better than it sounds.

On Monday, five of our group (including Carol and me) took a boat tour of Western Brook Pond, a fresh water lake located where a glacier had retreated about 10,000 years ago. The pond is several hundred feet deep, 10 miles long, and is enclosed on two sides by cliffs that range up to 2100 feet tall. We got our exercise, since the boat dock is a 45 minute walk on a gravel and boardwalk path from the roadside parking lot.

After several days of overcast, Tuesday was finally a sunny day. We left the coast and took out motorhomes inland to Gander. That evening was a steak dinner in the campground pavilion and after-dinner entertainment by a three-piece local band.

Wednesday morning was a bus tour of Gander, including the airport which has a fantastic mural and to which 38 international flights had been diverted when U.S. airspace was closed on 9/11. We also saw a planeload of American troops on a charter flight headed for Iraq. The afternoon was free, so we once again caught up on laundry.

Thursday we took a bus tour up the peninsula to Twillingate (a corruption of the French Toulinquet) where we visited a museum, a lighthouse (what else) and a winery that produces berry wines. After sampling several varieties, we bought bottles of Black Crowberry, Partridgeberry/Apple, and Rhubarb wine. In the afternoon, we visited a museum featuring the native American Beothuck who had inhabited the region from the 1650s to the 1800s. This tribe is now extinct, the last member having died in the late 1800s.

Friday we moved on to Clarenville, where we are dry camping in a high school parking lot. Saturday was another bus tour up the Bonavista Peninsula. The day was overcast, and the tour included a beautiful rocky coast, another lighthouse, and a museum and replica sailing vessel (HMS Matthew) honoring John Cabot (a corruption of Giovani Cabota), the Portuguese captain who, sailing for the British, discovered this peninsula in 1497. After lunch we visited the Ryan Premises, a national historic site, dedicated to a merchant who was a major salt fish (cod) exporter. The afternoon also featured a four-member local music group which was joined for several songs by one of the two local guides who accompanied us in Gander and Clarenville. These two guides (both women) have been exceptional, and the last couple of bus tours have been the best of the caravan so far.

Back at the campground, we found the Internet access at the library and downloaded two weeks worth of e-mail and financial information. This evening (Saturday) I am composing this message in Word and will upload it to the blog tomorrow morning, before a short drive to St. John’s.

Overall we are having great time on the caravan, and on Friday I phoned Winnebago Tours to sign up for next years “Great Circle” caravan which tours national parks and other sites in the Southwest.

Since we are dry camping, the battery on my laptop is getting weak, so I will not try to post photos today. If we have Internet access in St. John’s, I’ll try to put up a few photos there.

Friday, July 14, 2006

 

Recent Photos

As I noted in the previous post, I deleted a week of images when I was at the Nova Scotia International Tattoo. The two following photos are at the Fortress of Louisbourg, a restored mid-1700s French fortified city.


This tugboat graces Halifax harbor.

This is a section of the Cape Breton coast in northern Nova Scotia.


This boat is in the harbor at Peggy's Cove -- the day was so foggy that the photos of the lighthouse are not bloggable.

This photo was taken at the tattoo.


The following is a photo of a pipe and drum band playing at the Citadel in downtown Halifax.


 

WiFi at the Ferry Terminal

After more than a week without Internet access, the campground on Cape Breton had intermittent WiFi access -- to a 56K modem. However, the connection kept dropping, so I could not post. Today is our ferry trip from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland. Unfortunately, the ferry is two hours late, so we are parked in the holding area. Fortunately, the ferry terminal has high speed access, so I will be able to post this message after all.

We have been in Canada since Thursday, June 29th. The weather has been either rainy or sunny, and frequently changes from one to the other more than once a day. We joined the Winnebago caravan on Friday when our first activities were a get-acquainted meeting and a nice dinner in St. Andrew, New Brunswick. There are 19 paying RVs on the caravan (one couple cancelled at the last minute) plus the paid “hosts” and “tail-enders.” We have finally figured out that Carol and I are not the youngest couple – that distinction goes to a middle school special education teacher from Minnesota who retired five years ago at age 51.

The first full caravan day, July 1, was Canada Day. A bus tour of St. Andrew during the day included time to watch the local Canada Day parade, lunch at the huge Fairmont Algonquin Hotel, and harbor seal feeding at the local marine center and aquarium. It rained that evening during the fireworks display, which we were able to see part of from the RV park.

On Sunday, we drove to St. John, New Brunswick -- not to be confused with St. John's Newfoundland, which we will visit later on the trip. There were no organized activities that afternoon/evening, so Carol and I drove the CRV to tour part of the (Bay of) Fundy coast, including several stops in a nice coastal park known as the Fundy Trail. Monday was a group sightseeing day in St. John. Everything along the coast is influenced by the Bay of Fundy, where there are tide changes as great as 60 feet in some places. Today we saw the Reversing Falls (actually reversing rapids), where the water flows upriver creating big rapids, followed six hours later by an outflow creating rapids running in the other direction. In addition to visiting the downtown area and seeing the New Brunswick museum, we visited a fortified blockhouse where -- as was the custom in that time -- a fake cemetery was installed on the most vulnerable side in hopes that an enemy would not attack through a cemetery.

On Tuesday, we drove from St. John to Moncton. En route, we stopped at Hopewell Rocks and (since it was low tide) walked among towering rock formations on a wide muddy beach. (Tomorrow morning, Carol and I will return at high tide in the CRV to see the view when the water level has risen by over 50 feet and there is no beach left.) Today closed with a group steak dinner at the campground. Wednesday was a "free day," so we grocery shopped, got haircuts, and did a little sightseeing on our own.

Thursday was a short drive from Moncton to Debert, Nova Scotia. En route we stopped in the small town of Springhill where we visited a nice museum dedicated to local singer Anne Murray, then toured a former coal mine just outside the town. We had dinner with the WIT group at the RV park's recreation room, followed by a show for us by the local pipe and drum corps.

Friday morning we boarded a bus for a short trip to a riverside restaurant where we had a huge buffet breakfast, followed by an opportunity to view a "tidal bore" -- a wall of incoming tide (about 6" to 8" this morning) created when the tides shift in the nearby Bay of Fundy and water flows in as the river is still trying to empty from the last tidal change. The rest of the day was free, so Carol and I again got in the car and did some sightseeing in the surrounding area. The highlight of this sightseeing day was the full size mammoth statute near where a skeleton was discovered several years ago.

On Saturday we had a very short travel day to Hammond Hill, about half an hour outside Halifax, Nova Scotia. En route we purchased gas, then got the RV washed (for $30) by a high school group that was running a money-raising car wash. This afternoon we went as a group to the Nova Scotia International Tattoo -- a 3-1/2 hour show featuring military bands from Canada, Great Britain, and Estonia, singers, acrobats, and an obstacle course competition. So far, this is probably the highlight of the caravan and something we would not have seen if we were traveling on our own. We had a nice group dinner this evening after the tattoo before returning to the campground. Unfortunately, during the tattoo I chose the wrong menu option from the digital camera and deleted about 70 photos from the last week.

Sunday was rainy. We had an afternoon/evening sightseeing tour which included a trip to picturesque Peggy's Cove (which was very foggy) and its most-photographed lighthouse in the world. We then returned to downtown Halifax for a group dinner and an evening
boat tour through Halifax harbor -- the second largest natural harbor in the world which was used as a staging area for North Atlantic convoys during both WWI and WWII. It was also the site in 1917 of the largest manmade explosion before the atomic bomb when a collision in the harbor started a fire on a French ammunition ship -- over 2000 killed, 8000 wounded, a third of the town destroyed, and windows broken over 60 miles away in Truro.

Monday was sunny. Our tour today included a short visit to the cemetery where about 150 victims of the Titanic disaster (mostly crew members and third class passengers) are
buried; the downtown Citadel, an elaborate British fort; a fine buffet lunch; a trip to the Maritime Museum; and free time to shop in the historic district. The Maritime Museum included a Titanic exhibit. I was intrigued by the third class menu for April 12 -- following decent sounding breakfast, dinner, and tea (which was a full meal), supper consisted of gruel, cabin biscuits and cheese. First time I've ever seen gruel on a menu -- I think of it as something from Dickens.

Tuesday was a long (250 mile) driving day to Bras D'Or on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. Unlike mainland Nova Scotia, Cape Breton Island features some big hills and a lot of lakes. Yesterday, Wednesday, we rode a bus to Fortress Louisbourgh, a restored 1750s fortified city. The rain en route to the fortress gave way to sunshine shortly after we arrived, and other than a little mud in the city, it was a nice day to visit. We had dinner this evening served by a local group in a church recreation hall where we ate with members of the other WIT caravan that is staying tonight at the same RV Park. (Their caravan is shorter, and does not include Newfoundland).

It's hard to get good weather forecasts, the televised forecasts here are not very localized. Nevertheless, it sounds like we will have at least some rain today -- surprise, surprise. It's a free day before tomorrow's 5-1/2 hour ferry trip to Newfoundland.

Taking a chance on the rain, Carol and I will did a 250 mile driving tour around Cape Breton, the northern part of which has a rugged, rocky coastline. We saw a moose cow grazing by the side of the road and a half dozen people swimming in the choppy, cold waters of the North Atlantic. Dinner tonight with the WIT group in the campground’s rec hall.

It seems unlikely that I will have WiFi access any time in the near future. I will update again the next time I do. We are having a great time and hope all our family and friends are doing well.

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